D-Panthenol

D-Panthenol Unlimited. DS IVI DSM Nutritional Products EFTA01098747 D-Panthenol is the most used pro-vitamin in the cosmetics industry. Because of its physical properties it is easily incorpo- rated into all normal cosmetic formulations. It pene- trates the skin, hair and nails and generally fulfills all the expectations of both the producer and consumer. D-Panthenol in skincare In skin D-Panthenol has the following properties: • It improves and increases the humidity properties of the skin (moisturising effect); it also makes dry skin softer and more elastic • It has anti-inflammatory effect and soothes irritated skin • It stimulates epithelisation and helps to heal minor wounds (shaving, skin grazes and blisters). Weiser and Erlemann (1987) have shown, that even low concentrations of D-Panthenol have a positive influence on epithelisation. The studies were carried out using a commercially available W/O-cream with varying concentrations of D-Panthenol. The results are shown in Fig. 1. Wound healing-/Epithelisation factor 1.4 1.33 1.37 1.3 1.29 1.2 1.1 1.03 1.01 1.00 1.0 Placebo 0.1% 0.3% 0.6% 1.0% 2.5% D-Panthenol ri W/O-Cream Fig. 1: Wound treatment with different D-Panthenol concentrations The effect of D-Panthenol in a 5% formulation on epithelisation and wound healing has been pub- lished. In the same study Vitamin E Acetate was also documented for effectiveness. D-Panthenol in haircare D-Panthenol in haircare products will: O Give the hair long lasting moisturisation O Improve the manageability of the hair O Reduce the formation of split ends O Improve the condition of damaged hair O Thicken the hair O Give the hair shine. In hair strengthening products like setting lotions and hair sprays the softeners for the polymers can often be replaced with D-Panthenol. In contrast to the normal softeners D-Panthenol is released from the film coating the hair and penetrates the hair slowly. The Panthenol which penetrates the hair is replaced with sebum so the hair does not get heavy and the style lasts longer. Studies have shown that although single applications of Panthenol have an effect multiple applications give better results. Panthenol is deposited on the hair and also pene- trates the hair shaft accumulating in the hair. A study with a leave-on conditioner showed that Panthenol penetrates through the hair root and is metabolised to Pantothenic Acid (Fig. 2). Pantothenic acid µgig hair 111 15 12 119 15.7 Placebo 031/2 Pamhenel Leaue.on Commoner Fig. 2: Penetration of Panthenol into hair The time between the determination of the Pantothenic Acid content in the control hair and the test hair was 4 weeks. The test hair which was treated with Panthenol contained 9 times more Pantothenic Acid than the control hair. Because Pantothenic Acid is an important constituent of healthy hair, the work carried out by Stuttgen (1960) and Stangl (1952), suggests that Panthenol acts as a nutrient for the hair. The influence of concentration on effect was carried out. Shampoos, which contained 0.1%, 0.3% and 0.5% Panthenol, were diluted 1 to 10 with water. The deposition of Panthenol on the hair was 36.4 pg/g hair after one cycle rising to 115.7 pg/g hair after five cycles (Fig. 3). EFTA01098748 Shampoo dilution with water 1:10 i Deposition pg Oanthenol/g hair 120 100 80 71.9 130 40 se4 72.5 210 20 0 51 one cycle 115.7 eanthenol- concentra - lion . 0.50,a 0.343,:t °Jo*, Dermato, 011.k:rine:J. 1530 Fig. 3: Deposition of Panthenol on the hair - influence of concentration The penetration of Panthenol into the hair showed similar results. After one cycle the penetration was 7.5 pg/g hair and after five cycles 21.5 pg/g hair (Fig. 4). Shampoo dilution with water 1:10 Penetration pg eanthenoVg hair 2100 20.03 1100 10.00 5.00 0.15 0.00 ------ - - - - 7.50 3.90 2.95 one cycle 10.50 21.50 Panthenol- concentra- lion 05015 03015 0 ION, Demisted. ol Cannuxt.:. 15 30 Fig. 4: Penetration of Panthenol on the hair - influence of concentration Fig. 5 shows the water storage capacity of the hair as a result of the deposition and penetration of Panthenol with concentrations of 0.1%, 0.3% and 0.5% in a shampoo. Shampoo dilution with water 1:10 wale., content mg/g hair 30 (1/ — 0.5% PantneneA (1) 0.3% Panthencl (2) 20 0.1% Panthenol (3) - Snampoo basis (4) 10 (3/ 0 20 60 120 ILO (4) ITIWYJt03 Dennatecn of Connetcut. 1990 Fig. 5: Panthenol in a shampoo improves the water storage capacity It can be shown that the water storage capacity is long-lasting. That is of particular interest as in the first two hours after shampooing the hair is espacially stressed by combing, brushing, blow drying and permanent waving. The high water content of the hair helps to prevent damage especially in bleached or damaged hair. D-Panthenol in shampoos, conditioners, hair- and scalp treatments and hair tonics not only improves the shine, the feel and the flexibility of the hair, it also protects the hair against mechanical damage and in general makes the hair more resistant to environmen- tal stresses. Panthenol in nailcare The elasticity of finger nails depends on the water storage capacity of the nail keratin. Panthenol can substantially increase the water stor- age capacity of nails and by this mechanism the flex- ibility and stability of the nails is improved. In a study, pieces of nail were fixed on an acrylic block and a mechanical pendulum placed to strike the nail. Initially the number of swings necessary to break the nail was determined. This was used as the control. The nail pieces were soaked in various solutions and again the number of swings of the pendulum neces- sary to break the nail were counted. The solutions used in the test were water, I% Panthenol in water, I% Panthenol +0.5% Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) in water and I% Panthenol + 0.5% Triton X-100 in water. Time of improved nail flexibility 4.5 4.0. 4 3.0 1.5 0.0 3 2 0.5 0.5 MUM untreated water 1% Panthenol: + water ♦ 0.5% US in water + 0.5% Triton X-100 n water 0.5% US in water 0.5% Talon X-I00 .n wale, Fig. 6: Panthenol improves the flexibility of nails It is interesting to note that SLS and Triton X-100 alone showed almost no effect (Fig. 6). EFTA01098749 DSM t The Science In Beauty Many of the leading cosmetics and personal care companies have realized the synergy between vitamitis. sunscreens. omega-6 oils and phosphoSpoi emulsifiers. and are incorporating them into their predicts at the proper levels. utikang renovative delivery systems and technologies to develop functional. high performance cosmetics. In addition to having invented the synthesis of many of these ingredients. at DSM Nutritional Products we have explored the science behind the actMty of these ingredients and developed concepts. addressing specific global and especially Asian trends in hair care. skn care and oral care. Unlimited. Cosmetics Area North America DSM Nutritional Products Inc. 45 Waterview Boulevard Parsippany. NJ 07054-1298 USA Tel. + 1 800 526 0189 Fax + 1 973 257 8420 www.nutraaccess.com Area Asia Pacific DSM Nutritional Products Asia Pacific Pte. Ltd. Shenton Way # 21-00 MCL Building Singapore 079 120 Tel. + 65 6325 6200 Fax + 65 6220 1976 www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com Area China DSM China Ocean Tower 22/F No. 550 Yan An East Road Shanghai 200001 P. R. China Tel. + 86 21 3310 4988 Fax + 86 21 6352 5511 www.roche.com.cnivitamin.htm Area Latin America DSM Nutritional Products Latin Amenca Av. Eng. Billings. 1729 - Prod* 9 05321-900 Sao Paulo - SP Bras,' Tel. + 55 11 3719 4601 Fax + 55 11 3719 4684 www.dsmnutrItionalproducts.com Area Europe, Middle East and Africa DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd P.O. Box 3255 CH-4002 Basel Switzerland Tel. + 41 61 687 17 77 Fax + 41 61 687 20 82 www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com The information given in this leaflet is based on our current knoviedge and experience. and may be used at your discretion and risk. It does not relieve you from carrying out your own precautions and tests. We do not assume liability in connection with you product or its use. You must comply with all applicable laws and regulations. and observe al 0wd-party rights. DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd P.O. Box 3255 CH-4002 Basel Switzerland www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com 05/2005 designed by: GAS.Grenzactat-online.de • Printed in Germany EFTA01098750